Baking Bread (When Bread Is A Metaphor)

When I was about 14, I asked my mother to get me a pasta machine for my birthday. I never got a pasta machine, but that there is a little glimpse into my priorities as a teenager. I used to lie on my parents’ bed watching The Naked Chef, and pore over recipe books (strange to remember what a pre-internet hobby looked like) and, of course, cook and cook. I was a pretty good cook for my age, but for some reason, I had a lot of bread-related disasters. I don’t know – maybe I bought bad yeast, or maybe I was doing something dumb – but often, my yeast would not get foamy, or my bread would not rise, and end results were flat and tasted yeasty. It led me to believe bread baking was very hard, and I developed numerous yeast-related anxieties. After one particular incident — I was baking a babka and the yeast did not froth, but I kept going and then, of course, the dough didn’t rise, and for some reason, this did not discourage me, and I shaped the babka for it’s second rising and again, it did not rise, and instead of just throwing it out, (I was not a quitter! I hated swimming lessons and violin lessons but continued with both for YEARS. Still unpacking that in therapy etc.) I baked it and of course, it did not rise in the oven either. I served it to a table of people that night and of course, it was terrible and the whole thing was thrown out – after all those hours spent kneading, waiting and worrying. So after that incident, I stopped making anything with yeast.

Sneak peek of the finished product - my beautiful No-Knead loaf!

Sneak peek of the finished product – my beautiful No-Knead loaf!

 

Years later, my three sisters and my mother bake bread all the time. My oldest sister especially – she bakes these gorgeous loaves of sourdough bread every week. Now, bread is, unfortunately, still recovering from years of demonizing in this country. That and mayonnaise, which will have a more difficult recovery, but nonetheless a recovery that I believe is warranted. Most Americans do not have the wonderful experience of walking into a nice bakery and buying themselves a beautiful loaf of bread. If they want bread, they buy sliced bread at the supermarket. And the bread they buy is full of preservatives, and lacking in nutrition. Bread does not have to be like that! I fondly recall my days in Jerusalem, where once or twice a week, I would walk to one of several local bakeries and purchase a loaf of sourdough, still warm from the oven. Bread! The stuff of life! A gift to mankind. But now I live in New York. For a while, every Friday, I would walk to Benz’s (one of the nicer food stores in Jewish Crown Heights – as opposed to Goyish Crown Heights, which is where I live) and purchase a loaf of maybe my favourite bread of all time – Tani’s bread – a moist and spongy loaf of sourdough. I’d bring it home for Shabbos and eat it slathered with miso-tahini (a real staple dip – originated by my sister). Nothing would go to waste. If there was any leftover, it would be toasted on Sunday or Monday and eaten with eggs or lox or peanut butter, or whatever else was around. Anyway, Tani stopped baking his bread, and a bread-shaped hole quickly appeared in my life. I started buying Zomick’s challah instead – which is yum but obviously, kind of junky and devoid of nutrition. I kept on thinking, I should just bake! I should just bake my own bread! My sisters continued to post their leavened success stories on Instagram, and I kept picturing all my bread disasters. What if I baked bread and it was terrible, and there wasn’t enough time to go buy a back-up loaf of challah for Shabbos? And then we had no bread for Shabbos! What if I bought a back-up loaf AND my bread did work out, but then we had all this extra bread that I’d have to throw out! I felt daunted by every version.

A piece of the bread! Really nice crumb on this.

A piece of the bread! Really nice crumb on this.

Anyway, on Thursday, I bit the bullet. I read and re-read that Jim Lahey via Mark Bittman No Knead Bread recipe. My nerves relaxed a little with each revision, until I felt ready. The whole thing suddenly felt really low-risk, and I welcomed those feelings. I made the dough on Thursday evening, and let it rise until late Friday morning. So far, so good! I formed the loaf and let it rise for another few hours. Still good! I heated the pot (in this recipe, you cook the loaf in a lidded pot) and then put the loaf inside. And suddenly, my apartment was filled with the warm smell of fresh bread. It’s strange that out of all cooking smells, baking smells are the cleanest. They don’t linger, although if they did, it would be a beautiful gift. There are no smells like it in the world! It’s up there with coffee and cinnamon. And then, there was a loaf of bread in my kitchen. Beautifully risen, covered in a fun dusting of cornmeal and whole wheat flour, like you see in cool bread photos. We ate it that night with miso-tahini and it reminded me so much of Tani’s perfect sourdough. And then I ate some the next day with avocado (which I now eat). And then the next day with melty, crunchy peanut butter. And then later that day with some eggs. And then my ~~husband~~ ate the rest, toasted with butter, with a bowl of soup that night. And the loaf was gone!

And here's some of my bread, toasted and topped with melty crunch peanut butter. Served with Grady's Cold Brew - the best beverage of all time.

And here’s some of my bread, toasted and topped with melty crunch peanut butter. Served with Grady’s Cold Brew – the best beverage of all time.

That recipe is so easy. No kneading at all. I subbed in a cup of whole wheat flour, to give some colour and nutrition. It just requires some planning, what with the 20 hours of rising. Yes, failures happen, sometimes! But we must remind ourselves not to be discouraged. I myself am very easily discouraged, in almost all aspects of life. We are hard on ourselves and sometimes, nothing feels as bad as spending time and energy on something that just doesn’t work out. Disappointment is debilitating! I’m getting teary now, but we just need to power through that stuff. We just cannot afford to get hung up there. I’m not talking about bread anymore. The bread is a metaphor.

And more of my bread, with some eggs, on Sunday morning.

And more of my bread, with some eggs, on Sunday morning.

A Salmon Patty for 2014

Most people ate salmon patties (alternate names: fish cakes, croquettes – semantics) growing up. My mother’s version was actually tuna patties; she didn’t make them often but y’know,I didn’t really like them anyway. Truth is, back then, I was also more or less addicted to ketchup, and everything I ate was smothered in the stuff. So I’m not sure I was tasting much of anything, in general. I think I rediscovered patties last year. It’s an easy and pretty cheap dinner, all the ingredients can be found at really any supermarket (as opposed to a fancy supermarket or kosher store – neither of which I have in my immediate surrounds) – in fact, you probably have most of the ingredients in your pantry right now. It’s also an easy protein, and actually, I think, a really fun thing to make for Shabbos. Pair ’em with a delicious dippy sauce (dijon, dill, mayo, lemon, a lil pinch of instant coffee – don’t poo-poo until you’ve tried it), and a big green salad – you’ve got yourself a pretty nice lunch, mister.

It’s one of those foods that will be as bland or as exciting as you make it. Go to town with the flavours – I love lemon, zest, tarragon, mustard – just classic fish pairings, really. Could be nostalgia, or something like that, but when I serve these, people are kind of excited? And they last for a few days in the fridge – leftovers are great for work, or for a fun little late night sandwich??????? Salmon burger????????? Some toasted challah, mustard and mayo, a beet slice or two? I wouldn’t kick it out of bed.

Our raw patties, pre-mixing.

Our raw patties, pre-mixing.

I don’t use a recipe. But I do have some nice pictures! One can of salmon yields about 8 patties. Fork the can contents before adding the other stuff. Do not be discouraged by how, well, potentially horrifying the contents look. It’s the TMI of the canned food world! Bones, skin… TMI, salmon! But it all dissolves! Anyway, you want to add something to bind it all. I normally use panko (probably about 3/4 of a cup), but you can use breadcrumbs, maybe saltines, or a mashed potato. I use 2 eggs to really close the whole binding situation. Then: a nice tablespoon of dijon mustard. Juice and zest of a juicy lemon. Whatever herbs you like; tarragon, dill, basil, parsley, cilantro, whatever. A few scallions, finely sliced, or some onion, diced very, very finely. A clove of garlic or two, minced or chopped very finely. A slug of olive oil. A cool amount of salt and black pepper. Also! You can actually taste the mixture before cooking it, to check if you’ve season it right.

Our raw patties, post-shaping and pre-cooking.

Our raw patties, post-shaping and pre-cooking.

Cooking! You want a nonstick pan, and an oil that’s good for high heat, and also neutral, like grapeseed, or canola. I used olive oil because I forgot to buy grapeseed, even though I went to 2 supermarkets today, and hey, it was fine. Keep the fire on medium – you want to let these guys cook through before the outside starts to burn. Oh – and after I shape the patties (think small palm size), I dust them in some more panko. Let them cook for a few minutes, then flip and cook the other side.

A word about dealing with fishy cooking smells. Close the other doors in hour house. My kitchen is next to my bedroom, and I don’t have a fan over the stove. Shut the bedroom door, make sure both bedroom and kitchen windows are open, wash the pan as soon as you’ve finished, and burn a candle or something in the bedroom. Good luck!

I will be serving the patties with a dippy sauce, and a big salad of arugula, jicama, blackened corn (straight on the stove burners!), avocado, crunchy celery, and a very lime-y dressing. Bye!

Our patties!

Our patties!

Friday Night Bites: When You See Ramps

ramp chicken

I hadn’t seen my roommate in a month.

“Want to do Friday night dinner together?”

“Yes!”

Ok, done. She kept suggesting things, not appreciating how controlling I am in the kitchen, so I relegated her to dessert responsibilities and told her I’d take care of the rest. (sorrynotsorry)

What to make?

That morning I hit up the spring-awakened farmers’ market with an open mind and a full wallet. Picked up some hardy parsnips and fancy mixed greens. Also grabbed a carrot and some tiny watermelon radishes. Side and salad sorted.

Behold. A few steps later I was accosted by ridiculously expensive ramps*.

RAMPS

For$15/lb. These things literally just grow out of the ground so sorry, but no. I averted my gaze and moved on.

But I didn’t move too much because a few stalls later I saw bunches of slightly less precious ramps so I got those. I had to.

Filled out the rest with a short session at Trader Joes and whipped up the following:

  • fancy mixed greens with carrot, watermelon radish + meyer lemon/shallot vinaigrette
  • roasted parsnips with miso/maple/soy – these babies take quite a while to roast but are pretty much set n’ forget

SPRING IS FINALLY HERE. YOU CAN DO THIS.

AND GOOD SHABBOS.

*You may be living under a rock so I will explain that ramps, or Allium tricoccum, are basically the darling of the farmers’ market and are incredibly prized amongst the farmers’-market-going type.  They are also known as “wild leeks” or “wild garlic” and have a mild leeky-oniony taste that is pleasing to the palate; they taste like spring.  They are nice to grill, make into pesto, and generally toss into anything.  The ramp season is but brief and they are delicious but they can be ridiculously expensive. I, personally, suspect collusion amongst the vendors but that’s a different story and perhaps requires a BTF investigation (!).

Best Ever Macrobowl! Also, What Is Macrobowl?

Here’s what lead me to macrobowls:

  • My kitchen is small, with limited counter space and one sink. Roomie (a vegetarian) and I decided that it would be a dairy kitchen. We have one set of dishes and keep it pretty simple. So, even though I do occasionally eat meat, my apartment is meat-free.
  • I love a bowl of food with lots of fun things going on inside. I love eating stuff like that at vegan restaurants (Wild Ginger’s bibimbap is worth mentioning) and I really wanted my own version to recreate at home.
  • My sister’s (a chef!) Friday night dinners were often made up of lots of small dishes. Shabbos in our parents house usually involved large dishes, but several small dishes can actually go along way, and getting to make your own combos is super fun. And then you also have such fun leftovers! Little containers of delicious veggie sides in the fridge.
  • I struggle to eat healthy and balanced meals at work – I usually grab a green juice when I feel deficient. But having a really veggie-rich, high fibre, warm dinner at home a few times a week feels important! This is also great Friday night fare. Jazz it up with some extra-special ingredients in honour of the Shabbos queen! Polenta cubes! Grilled maple-tamari tempeh!

Okay! Anyway. So here’s what a macrobowl is. It has a grain base; usually quinoa, sometimes rice. I wanted to do it with kamut this week but… didn’t. Then, you want a few small veggie dishes. Typically, some kale sauteed with garlic, some roasted veggies, roots or something more seasonal like brussels* sprouts roasted with shallots, honey and dijon mustard. And then usually a veggie protein; some tofu or tempeh. And then something saucy on top.

Last night I made possibly one of my favourite macrobowls ever and I want to tell you about it:

  • Quinoa, with a little drizzle of olive oil before serving.
  • Halved brussels sprouts, sauteed in sesame oil with garlic, scallions, fresh shaved corn, and tarragon. I made it up on the spot! It was excellent, and heralds the impending Spring!
  • Roasted parsnip slices, cut on the bias. Pretty! I ate something similar from the Whole Foods salad bar recently.
  • Roasted asparagus, just tossed in some oil, salt and pep.
  • Cubed smoked tofu (I buy it smoked, it’s a really fun and tasty addition to the macrobowl system).
  • Miso, tahini, lemon, and scallion saucy thing. I love this! It’s a saucier version of my favourite thing to spread on challah.
  • Cholula! My favourite hot sauce.

Here’s a picture:

M A C R O B O W L

M A C R O B O W L

It was really good! Very easy, pretty cheap, and I put it took probably an hour, start to finish. Leftovers will last like a week in the fridge. Ideally, you bring the leftovers to work. Throw in some arugula to bulk or freshen it up. What are some fun things you’d put in your macrobowl? Tell us in the comments!!

*I literally JUST found out that it’s ‘brussels sprouts’, and not ‘brussel sprouts’. Omg!!!!!

Friday Night Bites – What I Would Make if I was Cooking for Shabbat

meyer lemons <3

meyer lemons ❤

 

The title pretty much says it all :/

Beginning around the Wednesday of every week I start to think about my Friday night plans. It’s not often I have the time to actually prepare such a meal but I love to think about what I’d do if I did.  Mm hungry already.

In backwards order:

–        roast chicken with lemon (preserved, even) , kale, chickpea

–        quinoa and roasted fennel salad

–        mixed greens with herbs with simple vinaigrette

  1. Because I had a super inspiring lemony chickpea soup with kale this week. It was 100% vegan and delicious but lacked a certain depth.   So I’m putting a roast chicken on it.  Take some chicken (preferably con los huesos), roast with sturdy kale, chickpeas, lemons and herbs (herbs!). Haven’t yet tried my hand but this looks like a decent starting point: http://theculinarychronicles.com/2014/02/07/braised-sage-chicken-with-kale-chickpeas/ (DO NOT FORGET THE LEMON. I feel like this is somehow key.) *
  2. Because I’ve had this recipe bookmarked for ages: http://www.bonappetit.com/recipe/quinoa-fennel-and-pomegranate-salad and because I feel like it will go well! And I don’t even looove quinoa!
  3. Because mixed greens with herbs is my new Thing.  Enterprising packagers of salad have figured out that this is the perfect solution to when you want to make a salad but don’t want to buy many separate bunches of herbs. Yum.  I have been giving them all my money. Toss with a simple light vinaigrette (remember: homemade is bestmade!)

p.s. If I could have found a way to make this True Detective-themed, I would have.

* I can’t seem to find an existing recipe that includes all our stars (chicken, kale, chickpea, lemon) which makes me feel like I need to actually make this ASAP. Keep you posted.

40 Years in The Dessert: DIY Ice Cream Sandwiches

40 Years in The Dessert is where we talk about pies, cookies, and other sweet treats. 

photo(1)

My sweet tooth isn’t that big. My dessert is usually just more of what we had for dinner, and a few weeks ago, I tried my first Skittle ever. Literally, one Skittle. My teeth sunk into it, and I thought, “right, got it, sugar”. If someone told me I was never allowed to eat chocolate, ever again, I would not care. If you told me I could never eat pickles again, I would cry and not get out of bed for two weeks. Anyway.

But sometimes I bake, and here’s why: people LOVE it. People love cookies, pies, cake, cookies. They are endlessly impressed by anything sweet you make yourself at home. And even though I never want any cake (not to sound falsely virtuous – don’t worry, I love bread and mayonnaise and potato chips and chicken skin, and I don’t mind ice cream), everyone else always does. And I’m way too much of a whore for affection, attention, and recognition to ignore how easy baking is. Flour, eggs, sugar, butter – truly a recipe to make people love you, and not in any bullshit way. They will really love you, I promise.

Admittedly, baking can get complicated. And the zillions of recipes online can prove problematic when you’re looking for a recipe that works, so it’s good to have sources. The last few things I’ve baked have come straight from Smitten Kitchen, which is such a good cooking blog and if it’s not bookmarked on your browser, you should do that now. I’ve made her gorgeous peach pie twice now; it’s not that hard and PEOPLE ARE SO IMPRESSED BY IT. Ugh! Baking! It’s extremely effective and emotionally satisfying. “How To Win Friends And Influence People? Baking.” – Andrew Carnegie.

Anyway, apart from good sources, another thing that comes into handy with baking, is instinct. Sure I don’t love sugar, but I do have a basic understanding of rules of deliciousness. And that is how the Ice Cream Sandwiches of this past weekend came about. I love cooking Shabbos dinners, but will rarely provide dessert. I’ll tell someone to bring fruit and be done with it. Sorry, guests!

But my beloved, his big sister, and her… step-mother-in-law, oddly, were coming to dinner! And it’s Shabbos – a day of rest, and treats! So I thought: dessert! I used the Smitten Kitchen chocolate chip cookie recipe for the first time, although I halved it (what’s a girl to do with 20 cookies?), used only brown sugar instead of white and brown, and omitted the nuts (on account of not owning any and wanting to keep it simple).

Future cookies.

Future cookies.

I creamed the butter and sugar with a fork, pretty roughly, but it didn’t matter in the end. I pressed the dough balls lightly with a fork, halfway through baking, to make sure the cookie was on the flatter side. I purchased a pint of Starbucks coffee ice cream (my local MET only had the lesser Ben & Jerry’s flavours, and I thought the cookies and coffee would be a good combo), and let it get a touch soft before putting a scoop of it between two (completely cooled, need I say) chocolate chip cookies. I pressed the cookies together, letting the scoop flatten and spread, and presented it to my guests on a plate. They were very impressed, and I felt very loved. Step-mother-in-law was a no-show, FYI.

“You’re not having one?”, asked big-sister-of-boyfriend. Whenever people ask that, I always want to say something hilarious like “oh, I don’t really eat”, or “oh, I’m trying to reduce (such a funny old word for diets, right?)”, but instead, I just said the truth: “eh, I don’t love sweets”. And I had little bowl with a scoop of the ice cream, and I poured very cold milk over the scoop, and ate that with a spoon. I learned to eat ice cream with milk from my little sister Freda, who, I think, saw Cameron Diaz do it in that movie In Her Shoes, although I think she poured the milk straight into the carton of ice cream.

Next time, I think I’ll put the ice cream in the cookies, and then put the sandwiches back in the freezer to harden a little. They can probably hang out in the freezer for a while, in an airtight container. I would have made a spare and wrapped it up for my roommate for when she gets back from London, but I don’t think she likes coffee, and all the cookies got eaten anyway.

(There is no photo of the actual ice cream sandwiches because they were made on Shabbos, and I don’t take photos on Shabbos. But if you close your eyes, there it is.)